#2: Maybe I didn't think this through
Trapping squirrels, my 12a project, and predicting crankiness
Every project starts with great hope and anticipation.
Then your partner of 8 years comes in the room and asks how I plan to get enough protein in my diet.
Me: From the vegetables.
Her: How?
Me: You know, I’ll just absorb it.
Her: What specific protein from which specific foods?
Me: I don’t know.
Her: I don’t think you thought this through.
To be fair, she’s right. I didn’t think it through. And it turns out none of the vegetables I’m growing on the property are particularly rich in protein content. I launched into a project without having figured everything out ahead of time. Little things like, “how will I get enough protein in my diet” didn’t occur to me, because, well, I’ve been reading these books about early American history, and the Native Americans seemed to be able to go days or weeks without really eating much of anything, and besides: I know how to fast and meditate.
On the other hand, the whole point is to climb 5.12, and for that I need to get stronger. Probably a lot stronger. And for that I need protein.
For the record, we did briefly discuss trapping squirrels on our property as a solution. But then we happened on a better one: crickets and grasshoppers. They are everywhere hopping around the blackberry bushes, and they are very high in protein content. And: I’ve actually eaten crickets before.
A few years ago I went through and cooked most of the recipes from Tim Ferris’ cooking book. One of them involved my ordering a box of crickets to be delivered to my apartment in Maryland, freezing them, then roasting them and making protein bars. Long story short: I know what to expect with insects, and it’s not at all bad.
Climbing
Vallee Daze, plus: how we pick our projects
Yesterday I climbed with Thomas — a good partner here in Rumney, and a very similar climber to me. We both climb solid 5.10, pushing into 5.11, and we both have trouble pushing ourselves. But I like climbing with Thomas because we typically want to get on similar climbs, and he doesn’t over-spew with the beta.
So last evening we went to New Wave, a nice little crag fairly high up on with a good mix of routes. Here’s our tick list for the day:
Ten of Spades, 10c
Short Wave, 11b
Black Dog Crack, 10b
Vallee Daze (Top Rope), 12a
Of all the 12a’s in Rumney, Vallee Daze would NOT be on anyone’s list of first a first 12a. It’s not considered one of the “easier” ones in the area (that would be Social Outcast, maybe Peanut Man).
So why did I pick it? Basically, out of necessity. It happens to be right next to, and practically share anchors with, a 10b. Which means I can climb the 10b to hang the top rope on the 12a, and work it regardless of who I’m climbing with.
Honestly I don’t know if this makes any sense. If my goal is to climb 12a maybe I should stick with the tried and true? Social Outcast over at Bonsai crag is the classic “First 12a lead.” But I got on it a few months back and it just didn’t particularly inspire me.
Besides, I want something hard. Not a short climb with a brief 12a crux, and if I only get that wired I get to have my goal. Meanwhile, Vallee Daze is sustained, perplexing at points, semi-beta intensive, and demanding on both technique, strength, and endurance.
Food
Finally got a tour of the garden
Yesterday I finally had to figure out what was in my garden. Until now, my mom (who has been living here for the past year) and my partner were in charge of food, while I focused on the garage renovation.
But yesterday I got a tour of what I have available to me the next month. My partner is worried I’m going to starve. Last night as we were going to bed I told her I was hungry (after the above dinner — a squash sauté’d in oil and curry powder, plus tomatoes and basil), and the look of concern on her face was priceless.
She really does think I’m in over my head. I assured her that if I suddenly broke out in lesions that I would crack and find some dry good grain to supplement my diet. But until then, I feel quite good. It’s the end of Day 2, and I gotta be honest: don’t know if this feeling of pervasive hunger is something I care to live with for a whole month.
For breakfast yesterday and today, I had a potato mash. Yesterday I had a cucumber as a mid-day snack, and a bowl of blackberries and red wine with dinner, so really who am I to complain? It all sounds quite healthy and also like more food than I really need.
Anyway: they’re all predicting I suddenly get cranky on Day 3. I asked how they’d be able to tell the difference between crankiness as a result of the latest political- and/or pandemic-related news item, vs. crankiness from not eating enough…
Truth is, they won’t. And maybe neither will I.