I’m typing this with fingertips that feel shredded and tendons that feel stiff, like my brain doesn’t quite register full control over which keys on the keyboard are getting hit. I’m having to reach over with my pinky and tap the Delete key more than usual.
Today was just a high gravity day. I've got a boulder problem I've been working on/off for 1.5ish months... went out to the boulder this morning, tried the warm-ups... couldn't do them. Physically I felt good, mentally I felt like garbage and was tired. Couldn't even make the first moves on a problem that I've literally warmed up on 20+ times. I was out already, and didn't want to waste a session, so I tried some other easier problems nearby. It took a bit, but I sent a couple. Figuring I was warmed up, I hopped on my mini project (which is neat, because it shares the finishing moves (which I never successfully done) of my main project). I surprised myself, and sent this mini project today. Now I'm one move that I've never done before away from sending! I think.
No idea if you warmed up or not--but I've found my first sport climb of the day always feels terrible (a first burn on a climb that's hard for me might not go well either). I've also found that how well I climb on my warm-up has no impact on how well I actually climb when I start trying hard. And I've heard that projects have been sent in all sorts of states: calm, anger, sadness, psyche, detachment. So good luck when you hop on Captain Fingers or FFLL again!
Today was just a high gravity day. I've got a boulder problem I've been working on/off for 1.5ish months... went out to the boulder this morning, tried the warm-ups... couldn't do them. Physically I felt good, mentally I felt like garbage and was tired. Couldn't even make the first moves on a problem that I've literally warmed up on 20+ times. I was out already, and didn't want to waste a session, so I tried some other easier problems nearby. It took a bit, but I sent a couple. Figuring I was warmed up, I hopped on my mini project (which is neat, because it shares the finishing moves (which I never successfully done) of my main project). I surprised myself, and sent this mini project today. Now I'm one move that I've never done before away from sending! I think.
No idea if you warmed up or not--but I've found my first sport climb of the day always feels terrible (a first burn on a climb that's hard for me might not go well either). I've also found that how well I climb on my warm-up has no impact on how well I actually climb when I start trying hard. And I've heard that projects have been sent in all sorts of states: calm, anger, sadness, psyche, detachment. So good luck when you hop on Captain Fingers or FFLL again!